Fendi and Del Core lead Milan fashion comeback


MILAN – Italy’s fashion capital is alive again with the noise of shoppers swarming in boutiques and publishers filling socially remote fashion week venues, a sign of a light at the end of the pandemic tunnel.

Milan Fashion Week opened on Wednesday with 42 live catwalks and 56 in-person presentations, the largest attendance yet since the pandemic hit Italy 19 months ago, in the midst of the week of the fashion. By adding digital presences, 146 brands are participating in six days of predominantly female premieres.

Signs of recovery are also evident at Milan’s largest store, the newly renovated Rinascente, where foreigners are spending six times what they spent in 2020 when revenue fell by 70%.

In a clear signal that Italy remains dear to the hearts of Chinese consumers, exports to this country nearly doubled during the pandemic, to nearly 6 billion euros from 3.2 billion euros before the pandemic, according to the Italian National Fashion Chamber, spending at least a portion of what they once would have spent on overseas trips to Italy.

Highlights of the first day of fashion week:

ECHOES FROM THE 1970s FROM FENDI

The 1970s echoed the Fendi runway, with prints, patterns and colors worn by modern silhouettes, during the second collection of creative director of women’s fashion Kim Jones.

The looks were pop star glamor, with chunky intarsia fur coats and knee-length boots worn with sheepskin-lined mini skirts and short shorts. For the glamor of the day, a cotton candy pink satin cropped jacket was paired with wide leg pants.

More modestly, silky pantsuits dramatically dragged a diaphanous cape. The caftans were decorated with chocolate swirls which were actually a hand-drawn Fendi logo that Jones found in the archives. A satiny, strapless, diagonal striped evening dress flowed from flower-child angel wings. Structured architectural jackets revealed sensuality. The pants, on the other hand, were leaking.

Jones said he’s been looking for an updated Studio e54 vibe from the heyday of the disco era, as he considered both the legacy of his legendary predecessor, the late Karl Lagerfeld, and the time he was there. did it for the first time.

“Our wife let go a little bit – she goes out, gets dressed. We’ve all been locked up for so long that I think that’s what we all need right now,” Kim said, calling her Fendi a “multi-generational … for all kinds of women.”

A white monochrome has given way to pastels, bright pinks and purples, subdued gold and finally black, enhanced with sheer curtains and sequins. The hair was rolled into a tight or frizzy bun, perhaps accented with a golden heart barrette, slightly folded like butterfly wings.

The season bag wrapped around the shoulder or wrist, with Fendi sporting embossed gold lettering on the underside. The biggest buyers featured images of two women, one black and one white, like a 1970s album cover.

THE CLOUDS OF DANIEL DEL CORE

German designer Daniel Del Core brought his flair for the dramatic to a couture-inspired collection inspired by a trip to the Costa Rican rainforest.

The collection projected an otherworldly aura, with mannequins making their entrance through a cloudy haze against an azure background, then continuing along a mirrored runway that the designer said was meant to suggest a tilting skyscraper. .

“It’s about the explosion of nature, of color, very exotic,” Del Core said of his eponymous brand’s second collection. For him, the models are nymphs emerging from the water with wet skin. They projected serenity.

The sheer, off-the-shoulder cocktail mini dresses had delicate pleated details that gave subtle movement, worn with pale pink thigh-high boots. A longer version featured layers of diagonal ruffles, some left unfinished and trailing behind, worn with chunky flesh-colored ankle boots with sculptural heels. The satin pants were worn with a modernist bustier.

The drama escalated with more tailoring pieces that included large structural headdresses, dresses with large origami orchids spouting from the neckline, and sleeves trailing on the floor. Some parts were so complex that they took hundreds of hours to complete, Del Core said.

Del Core, a former Gucci events coordinator, launched his own line last February after a productive and imaginative pandemic lockdown.

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COZY KNIT N ° 21’s

Alessandro Dell’Acqua offers men and women exactly what they need to get out of their pandemic home-life existence: chunky knits with matching slippers from his No.21 brand.

“I put all the codes of n ° 21, it is my obsession. There are a lot of knits, embroidery and veils. Men and women wear the same clothes, it is not a question of dressing up” , did he declare.

A one-shoulder knit mini dress was accented with fringe and finished with knit shoes, or more provocatively, knit dresses with cutouts were worn over rhinestone encrusted bodysuits. For him, white knit pants featured an openwork diamond pattern. The same pattern appears in U-shaped sweaters and mini skirts.

For men and women, transparent feather-trimmed pants worn with a slip-on with cellophane fringe.

The color scheme was very precise: white, nude with a bit of burgundy and black. “I wanted to use little color to give more attention to materials and models,” he said.

No.21 returned to the track after showing up in digital last winter. It’s not fashion week unless Pat Benatar says “Love is a battleground” for the No.21 finale.

“We’re back to semi-normality. It’s already something,” Dell’Acqua said.

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GRAPHIC DEPARTURE OF JIL SANDER

Luke and Lucie Meier led fashionistas to a calming lavender-lit space for their Jil Sander show.

Their collection was a study of discipline, with a structured jacket with wide shoulders and trouser suits accented by rigid scarves in contrasting colors.

There were also sweet moments, like a soft cotton candy knit skirt and top, and hand-crocheted tops and dresses that, ironically, seemed to recreate an infographic.

The brand known for its minimalism is slowly embracing prints and embellishments under the guidance of the husband and wife team. Striped dresses rolled up at the waist, and tunics, including beautiful embroidered bloused numbers, over pants projected modesty.

Gold disc earrings accentuated the collection.

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GHALI FOR BENETTON

Italian rapper Ghali has signed a capsule collection for Benetton that mixes his Tunisian heritage and his Italian roots.

Ghali, 28, said he lacked role models growing up in Milan. Later, when he used Arabic choruses in his music, the second-generation Arabic-speaking Italian youths were wildly enthusiastic, telling him, “Thanks to my music, the atmosphere in the school hallways had changed.

Now he hopes to help those same second-generation kids and their Italian counterparts find common ground in his new capsule collection for Benetton. Ghali took over the classic Benetton octopus logo, dressing it in a G on oversized baseball caps and hoodies. His name in Arabic and an “Arabic” crescent moon become designs on the front of sweatshirts or on the legs of sweatpants.

For more dressy days, there is a varsity sweater and pants that can be worn with a pearl necklace also for him in this era that is shaking up gender codes. A nylon hijab as a standalone piece can be incorporated into any look.

“We wanted to create clothes for my generation and for the streets,” Ghali said. “I’m not a designer, but I have clear ideas about how I want to dress, my team and my fans. This is an honest collection of everyday wear.”

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